Paint with Colorex

Preparation

Wallpaper and previously painted surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with a sponge and a suitable cleaning agent intended for painting. If the wallpaper detaches from the substrate, it cannot be painted and should be removed. Fill any uneven areas and damages with wall filler. For seams in new panel materials, these should first be reinforced with paper or fiber tape. Once the filler has dried, sand the surface smooth and remove all sanding dust.

If walls have stains from nicotine, soot, or moisture, these should be sealed with a blocking primer before further treatment. To create a durable and uniform wall covering, fiberglass or felt can be installed if necessary, then painted.

Painting

Apply two coats of paint with drying time between applications. Use a roller for large surfaces and a brush for corners and hard-to-reach areas. The roller nap affects how much texture the surface gets – a short nap gives a smoother surface, while a longer nap adds more texture. After evenly distributing the paint, smooth the surface by rolling in the same direction with even pressure to avoid uneven gloss or shadowing.

Note that strong and bright colors may require additional coats to achieve full coverage.

Maintenance

Painted surfaces with higher gloss can be cleaned with a soft cloth and mild detergent, followed by wiping with a lightly dampened cloth. Surfaces with lower gloss should be treated gently, as vigorous rubbing can alter the sheen. In such cases, touch-up painting may be better than cleaning. Black marks from metal can be carefully removed with an eraser. Avoid strong solvents when cleaning painted surfaces.

Preparation

Previously painted ceilings should be cleaned thoroughly with a cleaning agent suitable for painting to remove grease and dirt. Before painting, test the existing paint by moistening a sponge and rubbing it against the surface. If the paint dissolves, it is likely a glue or lime-based paint, which cannot be overpainted directly. In such cases, treat the surface with a binding primer to make it solid and paintable.

If the ceiling has discoloration from nicotine, soot, or moisture, these should also be sealed with a blocking primer to prevent bleed-through.

Fill uneven areas with wall or ceiling filler. For seams in plasterboards, reinforce with paper or fiber tape. Once the filler has dried, sand smooth and remove all dust.

Painting

Ceilings should be painted generously to avoid seams and uneven coverage. Always paint in the direction of the light—from the window inward—and try to paint the entire ceiling in one go without breaks.

After the paint is evenly distributed, smooth the surface by rolling in the same direction with even pressure. This ensures the texture aligns, reducing uneven light reflection or blotchy appearance.

A fully matte paint designed specifically for ceilings is usually used to achieve a soft, pleasant light reflection.

Maintenance

Fully matte ceiling surfaces are sensitive to rubbing, which may cause gloss changes. If cleaning is needed, use mild detergent and a soft cloth, followed by wiping with a lightly dampened cloth. Black marks from metal can be carefully removed with an eraser.

If the surface is dirty or stained, repainting may be easier and provide the best results. Avoid strong solvents or alcohol when cleaning painted surfaces.

Wooden Floors

Preparation

When sanding new or bare wood floors, use fine sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface and minimize raised fibers. Fine sandpaper is also used before varnishing and during intermediate sanding.

On previously varnished floors, remove wax, dirt, and other contaminants thoroughly. Then lightly matt-sand the surface with fine sandpaper to ensure good adhesion before painting or varnishing.

Painting and Varnishing

The floor can be treated with paint or clear varnish depending on desired appearance and wear requirements. Apply the first layer thinly, then apply 1–3 additional coats depending on the substrate and desired durability.

Use a wide brush or floor roller and work in the direction of the wood grain. Avoid working too long in wet paint or varnish, as this can create unevenness.

Maintenance

Painted or varnished floors should be cleaned with a mild floor cleaner suitable for floor surfaces. Avoid strong solvents and abrasive products that may damage the finish.

Concrete and Linoleum Floors

Preparation

The substrate must be clean, dry, and free from grease. Wash thoroughly, rinse with clean water, and allow to dry completely before painting. Remove any oil stains with a suitable solvent.

Concrete must be properly cured before treatment. For linoleum, test-paint a small area to check for wax residue. If the paint does not dry properly or feels sticky, the floor may need de-waxing before painting.

Painting

Apply paint or varnish with a brush, roller, or spray. Thin the first coat slightly if necessary for better penetration. For increased durability, multiple coats may be applied.

Maintenance

Clean the floor with a mild floor cleaner according to the type of floor. Avoid strong solvents that may negatively affect the finish.

Preparation

Bare wood surfaces should be sanded and filled if necessary. After filling, sand the surface again. Previously painted surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned with a suitable cleaning agent. Remove loose or flaking paint and lightly sand with fine sandpaper for good adhesion. Remove all sanding dust.

Masking tape can be used along edges and moldings for a clean, precise result.
Choosing the right tool, such as brush, roller, or pad, greatly affects the final result.

Painting Interior Woodwork

Prime the surface with a primer intended for woodwork. For bold or vivid colors, the primer can be tinted to improve coverage. Apply paint with a brush for lacquer, a fine roller, or pad, then smooth with a brush for an even finish.

Allow the primer to dry thoroughly in a well-ventilated area before applying topcoat. Apply one to two topcoats carefully, allowing adequate drying time between coats. Bright colors may require additional coats for full coverage.

Painting Exterior Woodwork

Bare wood surfaces, such as windows, doors, and details, should always be primed with exterior primer. Primer can also be tinted for strong colors.

Apply primer and topcoat with a brush, pad, or fine roller and smooth with a brush for an even finish. Allow proper drying between coats. Usually, one to two full topcoats are needed for best results.

Maintenance

Exterior woodwork should be cleaned regularly with a mild detergent suitable for painted surfaces. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Cleaning and maintenance extend the life of the paint and keep surfaces fresh longer.

Preparation

Choose a period with dry and warm weather for painting. There should have been several days without rain, and the work should be completed in time for the paint to dry before evening moisture or frost occurs. Avoid painting in direct sunlight or on sun-warmed surfaces.

New wood should be painted as soon as possible after installation. If painted indoors before installation, the wood should not be too dry, as it may swell outdoors and cause cracks in the paint layer.

Choosing the right type of paint starts with knowing what was previously used. Typically, the same paint type should be reused, as different systems have different properties and elasticity. Painting a hard paint over a soft surface may cause cracking and flaking. If changing paint type, remove the old paint completely before repainting.

Tips to identify previous paint type:
– If sanding the surface causes paint to stick to sandpaper, it is likely acrylic. If it powders without sticking, it is likely alkyd or linseed oil paint.
– A drop of lye that turns the surface yellow-brown indicates alkyd paint.
– If rubbing with a cloth moistened with alcohol dissolves or discolors the paint, it is likely acrylic.

The surface must be dry, solid, and clean. Loose paint should be scraped or brushed off. Damaged or rotted wood should be replaced. Dirty surfaces should be washed and rinsed thoroughly. Treat any mold or algae. If using a high-pressure washer, allow the facade to dry properly—usually two to three weeks of dry weather—so all water can evaporate.

Painting

Treat end-grain and seams carefully to protect against moisture. Prime according to the substrate and paint type. Then apply one to two topcoats depending on substrate absorption and desired protection.

Maintenance

Dirty facades should be cleaned regularly with a mild detergent and rinsed thoroughly. If mold or algae are present, disinfect before repainting.

Paint gloss and color fade over time, especially on sun-exposed sides facing south and east. These areas may need more frequent maintenance than other parts of the house.

Preparation

Wood exposed to fluctuating moisture swells and shrinks repeatedly, which can cause cracking as the natural binders cannot hold fibers together. A well-oiled surface becomes water-repellent and retains more even moisture, reducing cracking risk.

The purpose of oiling is to saturate the surface with a fatty oil that penetrates the material and increases water resistance. Oil should not form a visible layer—any excess should be wiped off to avoid discoloration or sticky surfaces.

The surface must be clean, solid, and dry. Remove porous or damaged wood. Clean thoroughly, rinse with clean water, and allow to dry completely before treatment.

Oiling

Apply oil with a brush or cloth. Coat whole boards in the grain direction and avoid applying double layers to already treated areas. Wipe off excess, especially at knots and pooled areas.

Repeat until the wood is saturated and no longer absorbs oil. For best protection, repeat regularly, preferably once per season, especially before autumn and winter. Pay extra attention to end-grain, as it is most exposed to moisture.

Maintenance

Maintenance is done the same way as the initial oiling. Clean, dry, and apply a new thin layer of oil. Regular oiling preserves the wood’s appearance and extends its lifespan.

Preparation

Corrosion occurs when iron reacts with oxygen and moisture, forming rust. Salt and water accelerate this process. A rust protection system works by using a zinc or zinc-phosphate primer that corrodes first, protecting the metal.

Over the rust-protective primer, a dense topcoat prevents oxygen and moisture from reaching the metal. If the protective layer is damaged, the primer continues to protect by sacrificing itself before the iron.

The surface must be clean, solid, and dry. Remove loose rust with a wire brush, sanding, or sandblasting. Remove oil stains with a suitable solvent. Always prime immediately after cleaning to prevent new corrosion.

Painting

Start with a rust-protective primer. Thin the first coat if needed for better penetration. Apply an additional undiluted primer layer for full protection.

Once the primer has dried, apply a metal-specific topcoat in two coats for best coverage and weather resistance. Use a brush, roller, or spray depending on the object’s size and shape.

Maintenance

If damage or rust occurs on previously painted surfaces, clean the affected area with a wire brush or sanding. Spot-prime with thinned primer, then undiluted primer, and finish with topcoat—first locally, then over the entire surface if necessary.

How do I achieve the best result when painting the facade?

Good preparation is key to achieving a great result. Always start from the top when painting. Another smart tip is to finish painting one side completely at a time, so you can quickly see the result of your work. With an entire side done, it’s easier to take a painting break. Read more about how to proceed in our tips and advice and on the packaging. Good luck!

Do I need to prime walls indoors?

No, but if you are painting a porous surface, it can be advantageous to first apply Pro Primer and then your chosen wall paint to achieve an even sheen across the wall. Painting on bare plaster or wallpaper makes a big difference in the final result.

Can you skim coat over wallpaper?

If the wallpaper is firmly attached, it is often fine to paint directly over it, but if the wallpaper has texture, it will still show through after painting. In that case, it may be better to either remove the wallpaper or skim coat over it to achieve a smooth surface. Test a small area first; if the wallpaper loosens during skim coating, it should be removed first. You can also prime the wallpaper with Blocka, a primer that does not allow water to penetrate.

Should the primer always be white, even if I am painting a dark color?

You could in principle choose a darker primer if you are painting with a dark shade, but in practice, primers are usually only available in white.

Do I have to paint the entire wall at once, or can I stop midway and continue later?

To ensure a good result without streaks and patchiness, it is always best to paint “wet-on-wet,” meaning you should not let the paint dry before the entire wall is covered. This applies to edges and around radiators, etc. Plan so that you can paint the whole wall in one session.

Can I repaint kitchen cabinets myself, or do they need to be spray-lacquered?

You can absolutely repaint kitchen cabinets yourself, but there are some important steps. First, cleaning is crucial because cabinets often have a greasy surface from cooking fumes, etc. Clean the cabinets with Painter’s Cleaner. To ensure the finish adheres properly, prime with Wood primer. Then paint the cabinets twice with Enamel Paint. Preferably use a foam or felt roller for a smooth finish. A good tip is to leave the cabinets hanging while painting; it is usually easier to reach all areas this way.

Can indoor paint be thinned with water?

We generally advise against thinning our products before painting. Exceptions can be made for spray painting. Thinning the paint will reduce some of its properties.

Can you paint over tiles?

If you have glazed tiles in dry areas, it usually works fine to paint over them. However, it is very important to remove all grease and dirt, including residues in the grout. Clean the surface with Painter’s Cleaner and sand lightly with fine wet sandpaper. Prime with Adhesion Primer and then apply two coats of enamel paint in the desired sheen.

Which facade paint should I use?

For repainting a facade, it is important to find out what type of paint the house was previously painted with. If possible, bring a sample from the area you want to paint to your local store so they can help analyze the paint type. For example, if your house is painted with lime paint (like Falu Red), you can only repaint with new lime paint (after brushing the facade clean). If you are painting untreated wood, you can choose freely from alkyd paint, acrylic paint, lime paint, glaze, etc.—whatever suits your preference.

How do I prepare for facade painting?

Ensure a safe working environment throughout the painting project. Do not compromise safety by standing on unstable ladders. Rent scaffolding if you need to reach high areas of the facade. Pay attention to surface preparation. If the surface is previously painted, clean thoroughly with facade cleaner and rinse carefully. If the surface is affected by algae or mold, use algae and mold cleaner to disinfect. Remove all loose paint. If you scrape down to bare wood, prime the surface with wood oil before the first coat. Don’t forget to cover anything you don’t want to paint (windows, doors, patio, or base).

How do I choose a color for my facade?

Consider the style of the house, look at similar houses, and seek inspiration. Sometimes you may want to return to the original color, and sometimes think completely new. The combination with the color around windows, doors, and other trims is also important for how the facade color appears. Consider the surroundings – is the house surrounded by greenery? What colors do the neighbors use? Do you want the house to “stand out” or blend in? In some areas, there may be regulations dictating which color you must choose; check with your municipality if unsure.

Which type of paint should I use for windows and trims on the house?

Surface preparation is very important. Remove all loose paint, oil, and prime the bare wood surfaces. Inspect the window putty – does it need to be scraped off and replaced? Choose Titan Door and Window Paint, specially adapted for windows and trims. These surfaces are often planed wood, unlike the facade, requiring a different paint structure. Also, use a high-quality brush suitable for the task; it makes a big difference.

I built a railing and laid new decking, both from pressure-treated wood. I want to paint the railing white and oil the decking. When can I do this?

It’s best if pressure-treated wood is left untreated for one season before finishing. You can treat or paint pressure-treated wood when the moisture content is below 16% and the substances in the treatment have leached out. Ask your local store if you can borrow a moisture meter.

Can I paint my brick facade?

Brick facades are generally maintenance-free and are best left unpainted. Painting may increase the risk of frost damage. We recommend first applying a lime render to even out the surface and reduce the joints, then prime with Betoprime followed by Betopaint for a smooth, durable finish.

How late in the fall can I paint?

You can often paint well into September, depending on the temperature. The temperature should not drop below +5˚C throughout the day. Surfaces must be dry, and wood moisture content must be below 16%. Also, avoid painting too early or too late in the day, as dew can be a factor.

Which paint should I use for my wooden fence?

Use a dense paint that protects the wood from rotting. Apply Wood Primer and Outdoor Primer before choosing an exterior paint. We recommend Facade Paint or Stabil Oil Stain for these surfaces.

Can you paint a factory-painted wooden exterior door?

Yes, clean the door with facade cleaner and lightly sand the surface before applying Adhesion Primer, followed by two coats of Door and Window Paint.

How do I paint indoor walls?

It’s important to choose the right product for the purpose. Protect floors, moldings, and windows with masking tape and floor covering paper. The surface should be clean and dry. Patch and sand uneven areas if needed. Use a 50 or 70 mm angled brush to paint at the ceiling corner and near the baseboard. Then apply two coats of wall paint with a good roller of at least 18 cm width (usually indicated on the packaging). Ensure the roller does not shed lint by rinsing it in water before use. Need a break? Place brushes and rollers in a plastic bag, squeeze out all air, and continue painting later.